Transition in Growing Strawberries: What Crops to Avoid and Best Pre-Crops?’

Indeed, it has been proven that there is a correlation between the preceding crop and the height and quality of strawberry yields.
Some strawberry varieties are easily infected by the fungus Verticillium dahliae, the cause of a dangerous root system disease – verticillium wilt.

Therefore, strawberries should not be planted after plants that, due to their susceptibility to this pathogen, may cause its accumulation in the soil. These include blackberries, raspberries, currants, potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, as well as cruciferous plants and, of course, strawberries themselves.

Good preceding crops are legumes such as lupin, peas, beans, vetch, onions, and root vegetables like carrot, parsley, celery, beet.
The perfect preceding crops are cereals, rapeseed, mustard, and notably: marigold. Mustard and marigold are especially effective due to their phytosanitary impact on the soil, helping to combat pathogenic fungi such as Verticillium, Phytophthora, Fusarium, and even dangerous soil nematodes.

Which Strawberry Varieties Perform Best in Tunnel Cultivation?

Growing strawberries in polytunnels is an excellent way to extend the harvest season and protect the plants from adverse weather conditions and pests. For amateur, home cultivation in polytunnels, it’s particularly suitable to choose varieties that are disease-resistant and have good taste properties. Here are a few strawberry varieties that may prove successful in this type of cultivation:

‘Honeoye’: An early variety known for its hardiness and abundant harvests. ‘Honeoye’ strawberries are quite attractive in taste and appearance. Plants of this variety thrive very well in the tunnel.

‘Elsanta’: A very popular variety valued for its large, juicy fruits with excellent taste and appearance. ‘Elsanta’ responds exceptionally well to tunnel cultivation.

‘Clery’: A very early variety yielding sweet, aromatic fruits. ‘Clery’ is also relatively disease-resistant, making it just right for tunnels.

‘Korona’: This variety is known for its large, tasty fruits. ‘Korona’ adapts well to various conditions and is relatively easy to cultivate, even under covers.

Vibrant: A very early variety with long fruiting (up to 60 days) and beautiful, delicious fruits. An excellent choice to plant in a tunnel.

‘Kent’: Characterized by tasty, vividly red fruits with exceptional post-harvest durability. This very fruitful variety is resistant to gray mold and begins to fruit very early in tunnel cultivation.

‘Aprica’: Valued for its tasty and extremely attractive fruits, which are large, shiny, and durable. A fruitful variety that is resistant to many diseases of the leaves and root system, and it loves to grow in a tunnel.

‘San Andreas’: A repeat-flowering variety distinguished by large, shiny, and extremely tasty fruits. In tunnel cultivation, San Andreas fruits from the end of May to late autumn.

‘Ania’: Similar to San Andreas, it fruits from spring until the first frosts. This variety features large, oval, highly shiny, and extremely sweet fruits. Thanks to its relatively high resistance to many diseases, it is quite easy to cultivate, even in tunnels.

Snails in strawberries. What to do? How to fight them?

Slugs can be a problem in strawberry cultivation, as these soft, moisture-loving creatures often feed on the leaves and fruits. There are several methods of combating slugs in strawberry crops that can be applied:

Physical Barriers:
Spread materials around the strawberries that make it difficult for slugs to move, such as ash, sand, fine gravel, or eggshells. Slugs do not like to squeeze through sharp or rough surfaces.
You can also apply special rings or barriers around the plants, made of plastic or metal.

Traps:
Setting traps for slugs is a popular method. The simplest trap is a bowl of beer, buried in the ground so that its edges are at ground level. Slugs are attracted to the smell of beer, fall into the trap, and drown.
You can also use traps purchased at a garden store.

Manual Collection:
Regularly checking the crops in the evening or early morning (slugs are most active at these times) and manually collecting slugs is a simple, but time-consuming method.

Biological Control:
Using natural predators, such as ground beetles or certain species of birds, can help control slug populations.
Introducing entomopathogenic nematodes, which naturally attack slugs, is another biological control method.

Chemical Means:
Chemical agents, such as slug pellets containing metaldehyde or iron phosphate, are effective but should be used with caution, especially in amateur crops. I personally advise against using these types of preparations, but if you decide to use them (they are effective), always follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Maintaining Garden Cleanliness:
Removing plant residues, old leaves, and other shelters for slugs will help reduce their population.

Cultivating Repellent Plants:
Planting plants that naturally repel slugs, such as garlic, sage, or plants with a strong scent, near strawberries, can help deter slugs.

Remember to always choose slug control methods that are safe for the environment and do not harm beneficial organisms in your garden. In the case of using chemical agents, always follow the recommendations for their use to ensure that eating our strawberries is safe

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