Sweet Wild Strawberries on the Balcony – It’s Possible!

Growing alpine strawberries on a balcony or terrace is not difficult and can provide a lot of satisfaction, especially if there are small children at home.
How to get started?

Just like with garden strawberries, we should equip ourselves with sufficiently deep (no less than 20 cm) pots or boxes and look for a sunny or only slightly shaded spot for them. Fill the pots with soil, preferably one “dedicated” to the cultivation of strawberries and alpine strawberries, which can be easily purchased at any garden store.

Planting Instructions:

  • Plant strong and well-rooted seedlings at the same depth as they grew in the nursery, maintaining proper spacing, usually about 25 cm apart from one another.
    Denser planting does not make sense, as alpine strawberries, although small at the beginning, grow vigorously and in a short time reach sizes no smaller than strawberry plants.
  • After planting the seedlings, remember to water them properly.
    Alpine strawberries like moist soil, but not wet, so we do not water them “in advance,” but also try not to dry out the root system.
  • About every two weeks, it is good to fertilize the growing alpine strawberries with one of the fertilizers specifically designed for strawberries and alpine strawberries, following the instructions that are always on the package.

How to Grow Strawberries on a Balcony: A Step-by-Step Guide

Not everyone has the opportunity to grow strawberries in a garden or allotment.
Some are “condemned” to grow them on a balcony or possibly on a terrace.
Is it difficult? Definitely not. You just need to follow a few of the rules below:

  • Prepare healthy and strongly rooted seedlings.
    This is the starting point, without which further activities will make little sense.
  • Varieties:
    We especially recommend those from the group of repeat-fruiting, which will bear fruit throughout the season until late autumn.
  • Location:
    Choose a sunny spot and an appropriate box or pot with a depth of at least 20 cm, with plenty of holes in the bottom for draining excess water (so-called drainage).
  • Soil:
    Fill the box (or pot) with fertile, yet permeable soil, preferably with a slightly acidic pH.
  • Planting:
    Plant young plants at the same depth as they grew in the nursery, maintaining proper spacing, i.e., no less than 25 to 30 cm from seedling to seedling.
  • Watering:
    After planting, water the strawberries generously.
  • Fertilizing:
    Every 2 weeks, feed the plants using a special strawberry fertilizer (instructions for use are always found on the package).
  • Maintenance:
    Water the strawberries regularly, not allowing the plants to dry out; the soil in pots should be moist, not wet.

When to Plant Strawberries? Spring vs. Summer vs. Fall

In gardening practice, we distinguish three planting terms for strawberries: spring, summer, and autumn. It’s hard to say which one is the best, as each has its advantages and disadvantages.

Spring Planting:

The most popular is spring planting after the frosts have ceased, usually from mid-March to the end of May. Plants planted at this time benefit from:

  • Large water reserves in the soil, helping them take root without losses.
  • They quickly form a strong root system, showing rapid growth.

While the first crop from spring-planted strawberries may not be abundant, the plants have plenty of time until autumn to:

  • Root deeply and
  • Produce a multitude of flower bud initiations, which will determine the yield in the following year.

Summer Planting:

Summer planting (July or August) is also highly recommended. Key benefits include:

  • Like spring planting, plants have enough time until autumn to establish a strong root system.
  • They also generate many flower bud initiations, typically resulting in a full fruit yield the following year.

Additionally, the period requiring maintenance treatments is shorter compared to spring planting. However, summer planting has its drawbacks:

  • There is often a shortage of strongly rooted seedlings during this time, leading to higher prices.
  • Summer can bring a deficit of water in the soil, necessitating regular irrigation of the plants.

To solve this, we recommend purchasing potted seedlings, which are available at our farm.

In July, we usually offer large quantities of well-rooted seedlings in a full range of varieties.

Autumn Planting:

Autumn planting (September, October) is also common. The main advantage of this period is the availability of strongly rooted seedlings in large quantities. However, late autumn planting comes with a higher risk of the plants freezing during winter, especially for strawberry varieties from warmer regions than Central Europe.

To protect the plants, we recommend using white agrotextile, which will help them survive the winter months.

Advice for Fans of Everbearing or Day-Neutral Strawberries

The cultivation of everbearing strawberry varieties differs quite significantly from traditional varieties in some respects. First and foremost, thanks to their unique vegetation cycle, the fruit harvesting period is extended not by weeks, but by several months!

Soil requirements for everbearing varieties are similar to those for traditional varieties:

  • The soil should be warm, fertile, and permeable.
  • pH levels should be regulated between 5.5-6, with a maximum of 6.5.
  • It is crucial to plant in well-cultivated soil free from troublesome weeds like couch grass, thistle, and horsetail. These weeds, known as perennials, should be eradicated before planting.

In terms of climatic requirements, many everbearing varieties originate from warmer climates, so it’s advisable to cover them during winter with white agrotextile.

Planting Tips:

  • Plant everbearing strawberries early in the spring to allow them to produce 4 to 5 fruit sets by the end of the season.
  • Remove the first flower stalks (from the previous year), which are not significant for yield. This helps the plants form a strong root system and leads to larger fruit sets later.

Fertilization Needs:

Everbearing varieties require more frequent feeding throughout the fruiting period with:

  • Small doses of multi-component fertilizers.
  • Fertilizers specifically designed for strawberries.

Weed Control:

  • Regular weeding and hoeing are essential.
  • Cutting out runners is critical for maximizing yield.

Disease and Pest Control:

In commercial plantations, chemical protection is often used, but I recommend avoiding these products in amateur cultivation. Instead, opt for biopreparations, which are equally effective and safe for health.

Winter Protection:

As mentioned, everbearing strawberries, bred in warmer climates like California, Italy, and Spain, need winter covering with white agrotextile. However, do not rush to cover them—wait until the soil freezes and the plants enter their dormancy period.

Visit our store for:

  • Fertilizers designed for strawberries
  • White and black agrotextile
  • Ecological plant protection products (biopreparations)

Strawberry Plants as a Cure for Anorexia: Fact or Fiction?

Strawberries: A Supportive Role in Anorexia Treatment

While strawberries are a healthy and tasty fruit, they are not a cure for anorexia. Anorexia is a serious eating disorder that requires a professional therapeutic approach, including medical, psychological, and dietary support. However, strawberries can play a supportive role in the treatment process for several reasons:

Easing Psychological Barriers to Eating

Strawberries can be perceived as less intimidating for people with anorexia due to their taste, color, and texture, which may help break down psychological barriers associated with eating.

Rich in Nutrients

They are a source of vitamins and minerals, which is crucial in the diet of individuals with anorexia, who often suffer from nutritional deficiencies.

Stimulating Appetite

Tasty and attractively looking fruits can slightly stimulate appetite, which is important in the treatment process of anorexia.

Supporting Overall Health

Thanks to their antioxidant and vitamin content, strawberries can contribute to improving overall health conditions.


Despite these potential benefits, the treatment of anorexia should always be supervised by specialists. Strawberries, or any other single food, cannot replace a comprehensive treatment plan for anorexia, which should include an individually tailored diet, behavioral therapy, and psychological support.

In the case of treating anorexia, consultation with a dietitian, psychotherapist, or another specialist is essential to ensure a safe and effective approach to recovery.

What is the Best Precursor Crop for Strawberries? What Crops Should You Avoid Planting Before Strawberries?

Strawberries🍓 have their “moods” – they grow and fruit better after certain crops and worse or even very poorly after others. Good predecessors for strawberries are annual leguminous plants (peas, beans, but also lupins, fava beans, and vetch), root vegetables (carrots, celery, parsley, beetroot);😊
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Which Strawberry Variety is the Best?

Ha, ha, ha 😂 How should I know?! Thousands of strawberry 🍓
varieties are cultivated worldwide, and here in Europe, dozens, if not hundreds. Why so many? The answer is simple – there is no one, single perfect variety, an unsurpassable model for all other varieties. Each has its advantages, but each (without exception) has its drawbacks. There are early varieties like <b>Vibrant</b> or <b>Honeoye</b>, and there are late ones like <b>Florence</b>. Which are better? There are very fruitful, attractive, and tasty varieties like <b>Elsanta</b>. But what good is that if their frost resistance or susceptibility to root system diseases is more than insufficient? There are very sweet, fruitful, and frost-resistant varieties, like the old, reliable <b>Senga Sengana</b>, but what good is that if it is very susceptible to gray mold (especially in rainy years), and its fruits are not durable?🧐

 The conclusion is this:

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Should You Cut Strawberry Leaves After Fruiting?

I assume the question concerns traditional, non-repeating varieties. Here we have two schools of thought. One says – cut back, the other – absolutely do not cut back. One thing is certain, if our strawberries look OK after the harvest, meaning there’s no significant disease or pest infestation (especially spider mites) visible on the leaves, the strawberries aren’t overly weedy, they seem to be in good condition and “have life in them”, then, in my opinion, cutting the leaves doesn’t make much sense.🙂
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