Transition in Growing Strawberries: What Crops to Avoid and Best Pre-Crops?’

Indeed, it has been proven that there is a correlation between the preceding crop and the height and quality of strawberry yields.
Some strawberry varieties are easily infected by the fungus Verticillium dahliae, the cause of a dangerous root system disease – verticillium wilt.

Therefore, strawberries should not be planted after plants that, due to their susceptibility to this pathogen, may cause its accumulation in the soil. These include blackberries, raspberries, currants, potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, as well as cruciferous plants and, of course, strawberries themselves.

Good preceding crops are legumes such as lupin, peas, beans, vetch, onions, and root vegetables like carrot, parsley, celery, beet.
The perfect preceding crops are cereals, rapeseed, mustard, and notably: marigold. Mustard and marigold are especially effective due to their phytosanitary impact on the soil, helping to combat pathogenic fungi such as Verticillium, Phytophthora, Fusarium, and even dangerous soil nematodes.

Snails in strawberries. What to do? How to fight them?

Slugs can be a problem in strawberry cultivation, as these soft, moisture-loving creatures often feed on the leaves and fruits. There are several methods of combating slugs in strawberry crops that can be applied:

Physical Barriers:
Spread materials around the strawberries that make it difficult for slugs to move, such as ash, sand, fine gravel, or eggshells. Slugs do not like to squeeze through sharp or rough surfaces.
You can also apply special rings or barriers around the plants, made of plastic or metal.

Traps:
Setting traps for slugs is a popular method. The simplest trap is a bowl of beer, buried in the ground so that its edges are at ground level. Slugs are attracted to the smell of beer, fall into the trap, and drown.
You can also use traps purchased at a garden store.

Manual Collection:
Regularly checking the crops in the evening or early morning (slugs are most active at these times) and manually collecting slugs is a simple, but time-consuming method.

Biological Control:
Using natural predators, such as ground beetles or certain species of birds, can help control slug populations.
Introducing entomopathogenic nematodes, which naturally attack slugs, is another biological control method.

Chemical Means:
Chemical agents, such as slug pellets containing metaldehyde or iron phosphate, are effective but should be used with caution, especially in amateur crops. I personally advise against using these types of preparations, but if you decide to use them (they are effective), always follow the manufacturer’s instructions.

Maintaining Garden Cleanliness:
Removing plant residues, old leaves, and other shelters for slugs will help reduce their population.

Cultivating Repellent Plants:
Planting plants that naturally repel slugs, such as garlic, sage, or plants with a strong scent, near strawberries, can help deter slugs.

Remember to always choose slug control methods that are safe for the environment and do not harm beneficial organisms in your garden. In the case of using chemical agents, always follow the recommendations for their use to ensure that eating our strawberries is safe

Sweet Wild Strawberries on the Balcony – It’s Possible!

Growing alpine strawberries on a balcony or terrace is not difficult and can provide a lot of satisfaction, especially if there are small children at home.
How to get started?

Just like with garden strawberries, we should equip ourselves with sufficiently deep (no less than 20 cm) pots or boxes and look for a sunny or only slightly shaded spot for them. Fill the pots with soil, preferably one “dedicated” to the cultivation of strawberries and alpine strawberries, which can be easily purchased at any garden store.

Planting Instructions:

  • Plant strong and well-rooted seedlings at the same depth as they grew in the nursery, maintaining proper spacing, usually about 25 cm apart from one another.
    Denser planting does not make sense, as alpine strawberries, although small at the beginning, grow vigorously and in a short time reach sizes no smaller than strawberry plants.
  • After planting the seedlings, remember to water them properly.
    Alpine strawberries like moist soil, but not wet, so we do not water them “in advance,” but also try not to dry out the root system.
  • About every two weeks, it is good to fertilize the growing alpine strawberries with one of the fertilizers specifically designed for strawberries and alpine strawberries, following the instructions that are always on the package.

How to Grow Strawberries on a Balcony: A Step-by-Step Guide

Not everyone has the opportunity to grow strawberries in a garden or allotment.
Some are “condemned” to grow them on a balcony or possibly on a terrace.
Is it difficult? Definitely not. You just need to follow a few of the rules below:

  • Prepare healthy and strongly rooted seedlings.
    This is the starting point, without which further activities will make little sense.
  • Varieties:
    We especially recommend those from the group of repeat-fruiting, which will bear fruit throughout the season until late autumn.
  • Location:
    Choose a sunny spot and an appropriate box or pot with a depth of at least 20 cm, with plenty of holes in the bottom for draining excess water (so-called drainage).
  • Soil:
    Fill the box (or pot) with fertile, yet permeable soil, preferably with a slightly acidic pH.
  • Planting:
    Plant young plants at the same depth as they grew in the nursery, maintaining proper spacing, i.e., no less than 25 to 30 cm from seedling to seedling.
  • Watering:
    After planting, water the strawberries generously.
  • Fertilizing:
    Every 2 weeks, feed the plants using a special strawberry fertilizer (instructions for use are always found on the package).
  • Maintenance:
    Water the strawberries regularly, not allowing the plants to dry out; the soil in pots should be moist, not wet.
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